An unobtrusive passageway leads into the Third Courtyard. The pink-fronted building with the granite base and steps is the Stare proboksvi (Old Provost’s Residence) which contains the ruins of the Romanesque Bishop’s Palace.
Directly ahead through the passageway is the richly embroidered facade of St Vitus Cathedral. The Cathedral is probably the finest building in the Hradaany and is also Prague’s largest church. It is over 407 feet (124 metres long) and rises to 108 feet (33 metres) above the nave, the roof is supported by 28 piers and there are 21 chapels.
There have been three churches on this site: the first, no more than a chapel, was founded by Prince Wenceslas in 925; the second, a substantial Romanesque basilica with double choir was completed in the following century; the present Gothic structure was begun by Charles IV in 1344. The distinguished German architect Peter Parley and his two sons were responsible for the lofty choir and the surrounding chapels, which were completed early in the 15th century. Between 1560 and 1562 the tower was capped with a Renaissance steeple, to which baroque embellishments were later added. The western end of the cathedral (the work of J Mocker and K Hilbert) is of much more recent origin and was not completed until 1929. Enter the Cathedral by the south porch at the side of the building. Known as the Golden Portal, it is the work of Peter Parler and dates from 1347. The intricate mosaic depicting the Last Judgement is by 14th-century Italian artists and features Charles IV and his wife Eliaka. It is currently being restored. (Note also the gilded Renaissance window on the tower.)
Immediately to the right of the doorway is the exquisite Chapel of St Wenceslas. Conceived by Peter Parler, 1358 to 1367, the lower walls are encrusted with semi-precious stones and decorated with a Passion Cycle by Master Oswald of Prague.
The Renaissance paintings on the upper walls are by an unknown Master and depict the life of St Wenceslas, whose tomb lies beneath the altar. Also noteworthy are the 14th-century statue of the saint under the east window and the wooden doorway, decorated with a 13th-century lion’s head.
The Chapel of the Holy Rood, or Cross, leads directly into the Crypt. Supports and capitals of the earlier Romanesque church are displayed here, alongside the sarcophagi of the rulers of the Pfemyslid dynasty. Explore the remainder of the Cathedral at your leisure. You will find everything from delicate Gothic stonework (see especially the Vladislav Oratory) to finely detailed baroque woodcarving in the choir. Modern artists are also well represented, particularly in the stained glass windows of the nave. Of particular note is the traceried window by Max SvabinskY erected in 1934 to depict the Last Judgement. It contains 40,000 pieces of glass.
In the centre of the Third Courtyard is a statue of St George. The original was cast in 1373 by Jifi and Martin of Cluj and can now be found in the Monastery of St George. Before joining the queue for the Royal Palace have a look at the excavated remains of the medieval fortifications and earthworks, discovered in 1920 and preserved beneath a green roofed shelter adjoining the old Bishop’s Palace.